October 30

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The Best Sourdough Bread In The World?

By Mashav Shelef


I haven’t tried all the breads of the world, but it’s safe to say that the French know their way around a good Pain Au Levain, the Sourdough bread. What makes it so special? In this post, you will learn about how my journey with sourdough bread started, and about my first attempts to baking sourdough bread myself.

My history with sourdough bread

When I went to culinary school in Paris, I encountered baking and pastry making for the first time. It was new and exciting for me. I haven’t had any experience with baking before. We learned about different doughs, but bread-making has its own field, separated from all other baking and pastries, Boulangerie.

Brioche dough, so rich and sticky!

Brioche dough, so rich and sticky!

Eating bread in France.

Bread is an essential part of a French meal. It is always available on the table to support the meal until dessert is served. It’s the way to enjoy the rest of the sauce off the plate, to clean the taste buds going to the next course, and to balance the meal as a side dish.

When I was living in France, I found myself eating great tasting bread everywhere I ate. It is often just a simple, fresh Baguette with lunch or Pain Complet (whole wheat bread) with some cheese and wine, Brioche with pâté, and Baguette Tradition with fresh oysters. A visit to a restaurant isn’t complete without their excellent bread (I mean, the meal was good, but the bread… was heavenly!) I’ve even tried the weird yet the genius concept of baguette dipped in chocolate mousse for dessert. 

 

Pain Complet with Seafood, why not?
Pain Complet with Seafood, why not?

 

Baguette with excellent wine and Pâté
Baguette with excellent wine and Pâté

 

Baguette with other pastries in Paris
Baguette with other pastries in Paris

France had the best bread I have ever tasted in my life; it was everywhere and all the time, limitless and always fresh. Crispy outside, soft and fluffy inside. And that deeply moved me. It wasn’t the sweet Brioche that brought tears to my eyes, but rather the Pain au Levain (the Sourdough Bread in English) that was life-changing.

Fresh Baguette with Boudin Blanc
Fresh Baguette with Boudin Blanc

 

The famous loaf of bread from Du Pain Et Des Idea, in Paris
The famous loaf of bread from Du Pain Et Des Idea, in Paris

Should we bake our own sourdough bread?

I learned to appreciate the importance of good quality bread in my life. But it’s one thing to understand that, and a completely other thing being able to make something of that quality.

We did have a boulangerie class in school. It was a one day class in which I was overwhelmed with information about hydration percentage, temperatures, starters, feeding times, flours and grains, steam ovens… It was very confusing. I learned that sourdough is a living thing. Bread making is an art-form, and getting into this realm requires jumping into the deep ends. I was not ready for that yet.

While living in Paris, it made no sense to try and bake your own bread. You can practically buy the most amazing fresh bread every-day on every corner of a street for less than 1.30 euros. I let the pros do their thing, and I focused on cooking.

But that changed when I came back from Paris…

Eric Kayser's Bread Selection
Eric Kayser’s Bread Selection, why bother baking bread when this is available?

A Growing Need For A Better Bread

When I came back home to Israel, I discovered how much I missed the French bread and how non-existent it was in our daily life. The “normal bread” that was available was nothing like what I remembered from Paris. I bought a few artisanal bread loaves to accompany dinners I cooked, but I was curious about baking my own bread to go with my cooking after a while.

sourdough bread

The journey of starting to bake your own bread

I started my journey of baking my own bread by trying out all kinds of yeast bread and country bread, which are simple and quick to make in a day. I made all kinds of different loaves, some with nuts and grains, whole wheat or country-style, and it turned out ok. Well, it’s freshly baked carbs; how bad can it be? But it was nothing like the French Pain au Levain (Sourdough bread) that I remembered. A few months later, I started reading about growing my own starter for sourdough.

Three types of non-sourdough bread
Three types of non-sourdough bread
Bread with nuts and grains
Bread with nuts and grains
Olive bread
Olive bread, not bad, but nothing like Pain au Levain.

First attempts in making sourdough bread

The first attempt wasn’t so successful. I followed the directions I found online to make the starter. I fed it every morning and finally used it for bread, but it came up dense and heavy. My starter wasn’t good, and I had to start over.

First attempt with a starter, bread came out flat and dense.
First attempt with a starter, bread came out flat and dense.

The second attempt was much better; I cared and nourished my starter and switched from a “wet” to a “dry” starter.

Growing a new starter
Growing a new starter

I began serving my own bread with my dinners, which was a big step forward.  The bread came out good, not great, but it was homemade and fresh sourdough bread.

bread getting better
Getting better at it

The bread got better with each attempt, and both the starter and I got used to the feeding routine.

Folding the dough, getting used to each other
Folding the dough, getting used to each other
Slashing the dough before baking
Slashing the dough before baking

Even though it got better, it wasn’t the heavenly buttered slice I remembered from Paris.

My Pain au Levain gets better with time
My Pain au Levain gets better with time
Last loaf of bread before leaving the country
Last loaf of bread before leaving the country

The next post will talk about how we moved to San Francisco together with my starter and 4 ways I improved my sourdough bread since.

Mashav Shelef


I’m a trained chef, a food writer, a culinary traveler, a food explorer and a mom. My mission in life is to inspire and motivate people by helping them experience life through food.

Mashav Shelef

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